We first went to Denmark and Copenhagen as a couple when I was pregnant with our first child, and during that trip we talked about how much fun it would be to bring young kids to Tivoli and see the Mermaid statue in Copenhagen. For our Summer of 2025 trip we planned our travels to Scandinavia around a nonstop flight from IAD to Copenhagen, with stops in Bergen, Flåm, Oslo and Billund, and a final day and a half in Copenhagen before our flight home.
Why Copenhagen?
There are so many things to love about Copenhagen. The food, architecture and family-friendly culture were top of mind when planning this trip. We also experienced some incredible play grounds and coffee shops that made our visit extra fun.
Planning:
We loved our stay at the Copenhagen Marriott Hotel back in 2019. We had the most incredible view of the water in our corner room. We also loved breakfast at the lounge.
For our 2025 trip, the thought of walking with both kids and luggage from the train station to the Marriott was too much effort, so we booked at the Copenhagen Four Points Flex hotel. This hotel is very close to the train station which can take you to the airport or other parts of Denmark. We did not bring travel car seats on this trip, so being close to trains, Tivoli and public transportation was important for us during the trip planning process. We had to book two rooms, and we were not able to get adjoining rooms which made it challenging for a family of four. If we go back to Copenhagen, I would spend time researching other more family-friendly options.
Experience:
We got into Copenhagen around dinner time, after a bus and train ride from Billund. We enjoyed an easy dinner at the bar at Jah Izakaya that had delicious food for the adults, and gyoza for the kids.
Our only full day in Copenhagen was the day after our Billund experience, so everyone was a bit tired. We found some excellent pastries at Hart Bageri and coffee from Prolog Coffee, and then went to Legepladsen i Skydebanehaven playground to start the day.
After our caffeine fix we meandered up to Nyhavn and the Mermaid statue to see both iconic sights, and then headed to Torvehallerne for lunch. It was so much fun to wander the food hall seeing open faced sandwiches and other gorgeous food before picking out lunch for everyone, and then grabbing a few Mikkeller beers to wash it down. Our next stop was the Playground in Ørstedsparken at Ahlefeldtsgade across the street from the food hall to let the kids run around.
Our playground tour of Copenhagen continued when we took the bus to the Tower Playground to explore before having a snack and some play at the Pavillion beer garden.
We loved the Italian restaurant BÆST so much on our first visit that we returned for dinner in 2025 with the kids. The wood-fired pizza and homemade charcuterie were a culinary highlight during our first trip. Our second visit was just as good as the first, and we were able to sit outside and enjoy the fresh air and sunshine knowing we would be spending the following day flying home.
Our final day in Copenhagen started with the same pastry, coffee, and playground routine before we went to Tivoli Gardens for a few hours. We did not get the Copenhagen card this visit, and opted to get the ride pass to make the most of our time at the park. Tivoli was very manageable with our kids who were four and five at the time, and they both found rides that suited their thrill level before we departed the park. The double decker carrousel was incredibly beautiful, and the entire park is like walking through a fairy tale amusement park. The gardens are immaculate, and the whole park just has a magical feel that I strongly recommend visiting with younger kids who are better able to bask in magic and cuteness.
Lessons Learned:
We learned to always pack more children’s medicine than you think you may need for an international trip. By the time we got to Copenhagen, both kids had been sick, and we ran out of Tylenol. My husband picked up children’s acetaminophen that was banana flavored, and the child who consumed it promptly threw it and their lunch up all over the airplane as we got ready to depart Copenhagen.
Travel Gear:
Our Minu Stroller and Toddler Carrier were the stars of this part of the trip. Both kids were pretty worn out by the end of our Scandinavian adventure and stroller and carrier combo plus some city bus tickets helped us make the most of our time in Copenhagen.
We also already owned Rick Steve’s Copenhagen & the Best of Denmark, and Rick Steves Scandinavia, so we were able to consult those when planning our trip and picking things to do.
Final Thoughts:
Tivoli is magical with kids. We spent a little more than half a day there, and I regret not spending our full day at the park. It was very accessible for our young kids, and the gardens and architecture are just next-level beautiful.
We spent our first trip to Copenhagen taking advantage of the activities included with the Copenhagen Card; including a day trip to Kronborg Castle. This trip was more focused on making it enjoyable for the kids before a long flight home. Next time, when they are old enough to enjoy more history and culture we will do more of the museums and other cultural activities.
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